Natures Creation® Guide To Vegetable Gardening
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1. Choose an area with good sun exposure. You should have at least half a day of full sun. If sun exposure is limited remember that morning sun is best with full exposure from dawn until at least noon.
2. First timers should not start out with too large an area. Even a small garden of 10X10 or 10X15 feet can produce substantial crops.
3. Choose your crops carefully. In a small garden, space is the most limiting factor. Select crops that produce the best return for the area you have. Seeds and plants have risen in price like everything else over the last decade but they are still inexpensive for what they can produce.
4. Some of the best varieties for a 10X10 garden are:
• Beets •Broccoli •Carrots •Cauliflower •Collards •Cucumbers- Bush Varieties • Eggplant •Green Beans- Bush Varieties •Kale •Lettuce •Mustard •Onions •Peppers •Radishes •Spinach •Squash •Tomatoes •Turnips •Zucchini
Larger plots can include other crops like corn, potatoes, and melons.
5. If you order your seed by mail, place your order as early as possible. Crops like tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, cabbage, and onions should be planted from plants purchased during the season at your local nurseries, farm stores, and garden centers. You can grow your own plants but it is difficult without a good cold frame or greenhouse. Mail order plants can be successful but the extra expense is normally not justified.
6. Once you settle on garden size, location, and crops, it’s time for soil preparation. Start as soon in as weather allows after the first of the year by adding soil amendments and compost so you will be ready to plant.
If you are carving a plot from a flowerbed or area with foundation plantings or small trees remove as much vegetation as you can. This will be the hardest part and save work later. Dig out all the roots you can. If starting a plot in the lawn, remove the surface grass and all the roots you see as you work the soil.
Renting a tiller will save labor or you can work with a good spading fork. If you have heavy clay soil a tiller is the best way to go. Rear tine mounted “Troy Built” type tillers are the easiest to handle and do a good job on previously un-tilled soils. Small tillers of the “Mantis” type are a great investment and major labor saver for anyone with a vegetable garden. They are good for all types of landscape chores. One of these small tillers will pay for itself in produce in a year or two.
Set the tiller on a high setting and make a couple of passes then rake up all the debris. If you are working on a lawn area with St. Augustine the roots and stems can be added to the compost pile. Bermuda grass, common in the Southern states can be a problem. Pull up and remove all the roots you can and dispose of them. With each successive pass set the tiller deeper and deeper as the resistance becomes less and less. The idea is to remove all the roots, rocks, and other debris at this stage.
After you have tilled as deep as you can it is time to add soil amendments. See our web site section on Soil Amendments to determine what is best for your soil. All Nature’s Creation® Soil Amendments are 100% natural and add no toxic chemicals or waste of any kind to the soil. The mineral amendments, like Nature’s Creation® Tejas GreenSand, Nature’s Creation® Lava Sand and Nature’s Creation® Expanded Shale, work in the soil to separate clay particles and improve moisture retention capabilities in sandy soils. When you have thoroughly mixed the soil amendments into the area with the tiller spread compost up to three inches deep to add more organic material to the soil. Nature’s Creation® Organic Compost with Mycorrhizal Fungi is perfect for this stage. Anytime is a good time to start your own compost pile. There is no better substance to add to the garden than good compost. Fall leaves and other organic debris are never wasted when turned into compost. To give the garden a head start broadcast one 5 lbs of Nature’s Creation® Tomato and Vegetable Food or Nature’s Creation® Premium Lawn and Garden Fertilizer with Mycorrhizal Fungi evenly over each 10’X10’ area when you add the compost. Till it all in to mix thoroughly. That’s it! You are done till spring planting begins. NOTE: If you live in the South with warm winters watch for winter weeds that can find a home in your beautifully prepared plot. You can cover the entire area with newspaper. It makes a good mulch and chemicals from regular newspaper do not present a problem. Water will penetrate the paper. If it breaks down just add more. Before planting remove what you can or you can or just till or spade the rest into the soil.
Because Nature’s Creation® is sold all over the big state of Texas we will not try and tell you when to plant. Your local agricultural extension service is the best place to go for planting dates. In much of the state there are two distinct planing seasons. Hot dry summers can be just as difficult as winters for vegetable growing. In the most northern climes there may be only one season.
Asparagus
If you like asparagus make a place for it in your garden. As a perennial it makes a great foundation planting and grows successfully in most of the country. Plant from roots purchased by mail or local nurseries in early spring. Buy two year old roots (photo left).
Dig a trench eight to twelve inches deep at least twelve inches wide with good drainage. Place a layer of a 50/50 mixture of Nature’s Creation® Organic Compost with Mycorrhizal Fungi and native soil about two inches deep in the bottom. Lay out the roots with the crowns on twelve inch centers spreading the roots like the legs of a spider in a circular fashion.
Fill the trench to within an inch of the surface with a mixture the native soil and Nature’s Creation® Lava Sand and water thoroughly.
Cover the remaining surface with three inches of Nature’s Creation® Organic Compost with Mycorrhizal Fungi. As this layer breaks down and settles add more compost to keep a layer that stands three inches above the surface.
Do not harvest anything the first year. As spears begin to emerge they grow a beautiful fine green fern-like plant that reaches over three tall. The compost will make surface weeding effortless.
After frost kills the top growth, cut it back to ground level. Make an application of Nature’s Creation® Premium Lawn and Garden Fertilizer with Mycorrhizal Fungi at the rate of one half pound per row foot in early spring and cover with more compost.
The second year harvest spears larger in diameter than your little finger and let the smaller ones continue to grow. Each year the harvest will be larger. To harvest cut the spears with a sharp knife about three to four inches below the surface. The compost makes harvesting a breeze.
Beets (60 days from seed)
Beets are a cool weather crop. In Texas, most locations can get two crops. In the spring plant about thirty days before the last frost date and in the fall plant from mid to late September.
Soak seeds for an hour or two before planting in a solution of 2 oz. of Nature’s Creation® Root Stimulator per gallon of water. The actual seeds are very very small and each rough pod contains a number of tiny seeds. Soaking allows them to sprout faster without the need for “soaking” in the ground.
In well prepared soil make a trench with a hoe or sharp stick 3/4 to 1 inch deep. Plant the seeds about an inch apart.
When seedlings are about three or four inches tall, thin by removing less vigorous plants. Thinnings make a nutritious addition to salads. Thin more as the beet roots begin grow to leave room for the bulb to spread.
Harvest when at one to one and a half inches in diameter. Any larger and the flesh can become tough and pithy.
Broccoli (60 to 85 days )
Buy plants from your nursery or garden center soon as they are available in the spring. Choose plants firmly rooted in the pots and not too tall. They should remain steady when you lightly shake the pot. Plant as early as possible to extend the harvest and cover if severe cold is predicted.
Plants get quite large so plant on eight to twelve inch centers. Pick off lower leaves that turn yellow or look faded. Hill the rows and plant on top of the hills. The plants can then be watered by flooding between the hills preventing soil from splashing and making the harvest gritty. Firm plants well down in the soil and water with a mixture of 2 oz of Nature’s Creation® Root Stimulator per gallon of water.
To prevent cut worm,snail and sowbug damage dust liberally around the base of each plant with Nature’s Creation® Diatomaceous Earth Crawling Insect Control and apply an inch of Nature’s Creation® Organic Compost with Mycorrhizal Fungi to hold in moisture and keep the roots cool. Apply more of each as the plants continue to grow.
The major pest of cole crops like broccoli is the cabbage worm. They show up when the weather becomes warm and harvest approaches. Lightly dust the plant with Nature’s Creation® Diatomaceous Earth Crawling Insect Control. They are big eaters and grow rapidly along with their appetites. Nature’s Creation® GarlicCide Spray is also effective.
Cut mature buds to the base of the stalk with a sharp knife before the flowers begin to open. Warm weather will accelerate plant growth and cut often to extend the harvest.
Brussels Sprouts (90-100 days)
People either love or hate Brussels Sprouts. Their flavor belies the nutritient value. The web will has lots of interesting and flavorful recipes.
In much of Texas growing Brussels Sprouts can be a pretty iffy proposition. The old standard variety Long Island takes 100 days from seed and newer hybrids, like Jade Cross take 90 days. Both are highly recommended. Buy plants as soon as they are available. They will stand a light freeze. In Southern states April can be unseasonably warm and the plants often bolt to seed without producing, a chance you have to take. We have observed instances where the plants did not produce in the spring, managed to survive the summer, then produce in the fall. They make a great fall crop in warmer states if plants are started in late August and planted in early October. Unless there is unseasonable cold (always possible) they can produce well into the winter.
The growth habit of Brussels Sprouts is unusual. The small cabbage-like heads form on the stalks. Just to see this makes growing them worthwhile.
Treat the plants the same as you would broccoli. The application of Nature’s Creation® Root Stimulator at planting helps them get started. Mulch well with your compost Nature’s Creation® Organic Compost with Mycorrhizal Fungi, . This insulates the root systems from winter cold and hot weather.
Cabbage: (55-100 days)
Cabbage plants are sold in pots like broccoli or in bunches. Soak new plantings with Nature’s Creation® Root Stimulator. Dust liberally with Nature’s Creation® Diatomaceous Earth Crawling Insect Control. Pay particular attention to the base of the plants where sow bugs and cut worms can hide. This will become more difficult but less necessary as the lower leaves grow and thicken. Watering between the rows will prevent soil splashing on the plants which can trap grit as they grow.
Lower leaves spread out and take up a lot of space. Keep a one inch layer of one of the Nature’s Creation® Organic Compost with Mycorrhizal Fungi around the base of the plants to hold in moisture. Supplement rainfall with plenty of water to encourage growth and heading.
Each plant produces one head of cabbage. To harvest pull away the lower leaves and cut close to the base with a strong sharp knife. Add the discarded leaves to the compost pile.
Carrots (65 to 70 days)
Plant carrots thirty days before the last frost with successive plantings every couple of weeks to have a steady supply. In areas with a fall growing season plant about 45 days before the first average frost date.
A limiting factors of carrots is the need for loose sandy soil for the roots to form. In heavy clay soil, success can be achieved by hoeing a trench about eight inches deep and eight inches wide. Back fill with a mix of clean sand, Nature’s Creation® Organic Compost with Mycorrhizal Fungi and Nature’s Creation® Lava Sand or Nature’s Creation® Tejas GreenSand. To this mix add Nature’s Creation® Tomato andVegetable Food or Nature’s Creation® Premium Lawn and Garden Fertilizer with Mycorrhizal Fungi at the rate of 1/2 lb per three row feet. Keep the plants thinned as they begin to mature and water frequently.
Carrots have few major pests but can be affected by nematodes. Nematodes are microscopic round worms. Their damage is visible in the form of knots or nodules growing on otherwise smooth roots. Prevent by mixing your backfill and exposing it to full sun for a few days before planting. Beneficial fungi that kill nematodes are encouraged by mixing Nature’s Creation® Dried Molasses with the soil. At the end of the growing season till or spade the amended soil into the garden. As soil conditions improve, carrots can be grown like any other crop without having to have a special soil mix.
Cauliflower:
Follow the same instructions for broccoli. Cauliflower plants grow larger than broccoli and cabbage with a spread of up to 24 inches. Space plants accordingly.
Originally, cauliflower was light green rather than the white we are familiar with today. Farmers used to tie up the large leaves to cover the cauliflower bloom ( the head) to keep it from direct sun so it would turn white. New varieties are “self-blanching” and avoid this process. There has been a return, especially in organic produce stores to the older light green varieties.
Follow growing procedures for broccoli and cabbage using plenty of Nature’s Creation® Organic Compost with Mycorrhizal Fungi and Nature’s Creation® Diatomaceous Earth Crawling Insect Control.
Collards (35 days)
Collards or collard greens are thought of as a staple of only the Southern U.S. but they are equally popular in parts of Europe, India, South America and Africa. They are grown for the large thick leaves and do not form heads. The flavor is milder than turnip greens or mustard and the leaves more substantial. After exposure to cold weather and mild frost the flavor improves. Plant in rows or sow over an area. Cook by blanching. Some of the natural chemicalcompounds in collards build up the human immune system and have anti-cancer properties.
Plant the seed in the late winter and in the fall about a month before the first frost date. Make a trench about 1/2 inch deep and then cover lightly.
Thin to prevent crowding. Harvest the outer leaves as they mature. Harvest can last until early May or whenever temperatures reach 80 degrees or more. In areas with mild winters collards will often survive all winter.
Like all leaf crops worms and other chewing insects can be a problem. Nature’s Creation® Diatomaceous Earth Crawling Insect Control will control them.
Cowpeas (60 days)
Cowpeas are a foreign vegetable to anyone farther north than Oklahoma. The most widely know of these legumes is the blackeyed pea. Southerners have a tradition of eating of black eyes on New Year’s Day for good luck the rest of the year. Other varieties are crowder peas, cream peas, purple hull peas, and several others.
Cowpeas requite warm to hot weather and have no tolerance for cold or frost. In the south they are one of the last crops planted in the spring, and replace cool weather crops that have been harvested. With enough water most varieties will produce until frost as long as they are harvested often. Peas form in pods and shelling peas is another southern pastime. Shelled peas can be eaten fresh or dried for storage.
An benefit of growing cowpeas and other legumes is their ability to take nitrogen from the atmosphere and convert it to natural ammonia nitrogen. To enhance this process seed peas should he treated with a nitrogen fixing inoculant containing species of rhizobia bacteria. The bacteria causes the plants to form nodules on their roots that store extra nitrogen and enhance the available nitrogen content of the soil. Agriculturally they are grown as cover crops by farmers with no interest in the pea crop to replace nitrogen in the soil.
Plant after all danger of frost is past and night temperatures remain above 60 degrees. They need full sun and take lots of heat as long as they are watered. Some varieties grow up to 36 inches high and tend to become quite tangled. The most popular variety is the California Blackeye Number 5 which grows about eighteen inches tall and matures in 80 days.
Plant on hills about twelve inches apart and then thin them as they begin to grow to stand about ten inches apart. Because they take their nitrogen from the atmosphere not, the soil, fertilizing is usually not necessary.
Insects can be a problem in areas with harsh summers because they are one of the few lush crops for them to eat. For grasshoppers and beetles a thorough dusting of Nature’s Creation® Diatomaceous Earth Crawling Insect Control works well.
Cucumbers (52 to 55 days)
A member of the gourd family first cultivated in India. The original growth habit is a vining plant growing upwards by use of tendrils on structures, other plants or spread over the ground. Recognizing space limitations, seed producers have developed “bush” varieties with a compact upright habit making them a natural for the home garden. They can even be grown in containers.
Plant seeds after danger of frost. Make mounds six to eight inches high, three feet in diameter. Make sure that the soil is well drained by adding Nature’s Creation® Lava Sand or Nature’s Creation® Expanded Shale to the soil. Mix a handful of Nature’s Creation® Tomato andVegetable Food or Nature’s Creation® Premium Lawn and Garden Fertilizer with Mycorrhizal Fungi into each mound. Plant three seed in the center and water with a solution of 2 oz. of Nature’s Creation® Root Stimulator mixed with one gallon of water.
When the plants are over three inches high add a layer of Nature’s Creation® Organic Compost with Mycorrhizal Fungi one inch deep around the base of the plants extending out twelve inches. Dust plants weekly with Nature’s Creation® Diatomaceous Earth Crawling Insect Control to prevent insect damage. The female blossoms will form tiny fruit (technically cucumbers like other vegetables are really fruits). Keep the plants watered and do not allow them to dry out. In warm weather fruit can grow rapidly and in a day or two get too large and flavor and texture will suffer.
Eggplant (50 to 70 days)
Eggplant originated in India. There are dark purple varieties and white varieties and combinations of the two in different sizes shapes and colors. Eggplant requires cool temperate weather. It is sensitive to heat and to cold and needs precise watering. Plants are available in nurseries at the same time as tomatoes and peppers. For most gardeners it is the most difficult of the three to grow. Look for faster maturing hybrids in Southern states where warm temperatures arrive earlier.
Prepare and spade your soil well and add five pounds of Nature’s Creation® Tomato andVegetable Food or Nature’s Creation® Premium Lawn and Garden Fertilizer with Mycorrhizal Fungi and five pounds of Nature’s Creation® Dried Molasses per 100 square feet mixed well into the soil.
Set the plants twelve inches apart and water with a solution of 2 oz. of Nature’s Creation® Root Stimulator per gallon of water.
To plant early when there is still a chance of frost, push a bamboo or metal stake firmly into the ground next to the base of the plants without disturbing the root ball. Cut the bottom from a one gallon milk bottle and slide the bottle over the stake to cover the plant. Firm the bottom of the bottle into the ground creating an instant greenhouse. It keeps the plant safe from even a hard frost and provides a head start on the growing season. Remove the bottles on warm sunny days to prevent scorching. The bottles are easy to remove and replace and the stakes prevent them blowing away on windy days.
After danger of frost, remove and recycle the bottles. Keep the stakes in place to support the plants as the heavy fruit develops. Apply an two inches of Nature’s Creation® Organic Compost with Mycorrhizal Fungi around the base of each plant. The compost around the base of the plants will insulate the root system, hold in moisture, add humus and nutrients to the soil to extend the growing season.
Eggplant are particularly tasty to beetles which can be prevented by dusting with Nature’s Creation® Diatomaceous Earth Crawling Insect Control. In hot weather spider mites can colonize on the bottom sides of the leaves. Prevent them by removing damaged leaves and spray with Nature’s Creation® GarlicCide..
Garlic
We could expand on the benefits and uses of garlic with enough pages to fill several books. Garlic is easy to grow and establish in most climates. In most of Texas it grows year around. In cold areas the leaves freeze back and the plants return from the roots in the spring. There are sub-types of garlic but the two main types to consider are the “hardneck” and “softneck” varieties. “Hardneck” has a stiff central stem that extends from the center of the plant rising above the leaves. At the top if forms a “flower” which is really a collection of tiny garlic bulbs. These are interesting but take away from the plants energy that would be used in forming more bulbs under ground. “Softneck” garlic is less likely to form these flower stalks and the leaves normally die back to the ground after frost. The leaves can be left on the bulbs after they are dug and harvested then braided together for storage in cool dry areas with good air circulation.
Choose a permanent area to establish your plants. The row should be longer than it is wide in a location with full sun exposure. A two foot by six foot space is ideal. The soil should be well drained and loose enough for the new bulbs to form. In clay soils add Nature’s Creation® Expanded Shale or Nature’s Creation® Lava Sand to hold in moisture in dry conditions and to separate the clay particles. In sandy soils add Nature’s Creation® Organic Compost with Mycorrhizal Fungi and mix well to form a rich loam. Mix to a depth of a foot or more.
Green Beans
Numerous varieties of green beans are suitable for a home vegetable garden. The best are stringless bush types that do not require staking. Older varieties had “strings”, a portion of the stem attached to the plant that extended the length of the bean and had to be removed before cooking. Most had a vining habit requiring staking. Stringless beans do not have the tough “string” and grow on low bushy plants allowing a greater yield in a smaller area. Be aware of these differences when purchasing “heirloom” seeds.
Plant beans in mounded rows to make harvesting easier. Soil should be loose and well drained. Watering during dry periods by flooding between the rows, the moisture is quickly absorbed by the loose soil of the raised bed.
Plant the seeds about eight inches apart. Plant two seeds together and remove the weaker plant after they form leaves.
After the plant is six inches tall apply a one inch layer of Nature’s Creation® Organic Compost with Mycorrhizal Fungi around the plants to provide organic matter and insulate the roots for more consistent temperatures. A handful of Nature’s Guide Tomato and Pepper Food applied to the soil surface before the compost provides adequate nutrition for good yields.
Aphids are a problem, control them with Nature’s Creation® Diatomaceous Earth Crawling Insect Control or Nature’s Creation® GarlicCide. Aphids can be tough to spot. They congregate on the under surface of leaves. A sure sign of aphids is a coating of their sticky “honey dew” that will be seen on the lower leaves first.
Pick often to encourage growth. Fast maturing varieties can be planted for a second crop in the fall.
Kale
Kale is a member of the cabbage family that does not form a head. The thick leaves are very nutritious and used raw in salads, steamed, stir fried, or microwaved. It is popular in Europe and the Third World. It is easy to grow and very nutritious. In America kale never reached the popularity of its cousins like broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and Brussels Sprouts because like collards and other leafy vegetables it takes up too much shelf space in the produce section to make it profitable. Colors range from light green to a deep purple. Kale is especially useful as a fall crop and reacts well to light to moderate frosts which enrich its flavor and color. Curly leaf varieties have heavily fringed edges that add to its ornamental value but make it difficult to clean.
Plant seed at least a month before the last frost date, the same as collards. In North Texas kale is planted in the fall for a supply all winter. It takes cold weather into the mid 20’s without a problem. Like related crops surround the plants with a layer of Nature’s Creation® Organic Compost with Mycorrhizal Fungi at least an inch deep to protects the roots from all but the coldest weather for winter and early spring harvesting.
Kale has few insect pests when planted as a fall crop. Cold weather kills the insects before they damage the kale.
The compost keeps the roots cooler in the spring and extends the harvest. A few very warm days set off the plant’s biological clock and it will rapidly bolt and become leggy. At this point remove the plants to the compost pile.
Kohlrabi
Kohlrabi the most unusual looking plant in the cabbage family. It is popular in Germany and Eastern Europe as a staple crop. Kohlrabi is grown for its bulbous stem that grows on the surface with branches and leaves that sprout from this bulb. The leaves and branches can be eaten but are normally stripped away. The bulb is sliced and baked with olive oil and seasonings. It has a mild flavor and can be eaten raw.
Harvest before the bulb gets too large. They can grow rapidly and crack or split or become woody and tough. This is an easy to grow vegetable that is too often overlooked by home gardeners.
Follow the planting instructions for collards and thin the plants as they mature to give them room to grow and expand. As the bulb forms on top of the ground check often for insects and worms. Apply Nature’s Creation® Diatomaceous Earth Crawling Insect Control around the base to prevent sow bug and snail and slug damage.
Harvest when the bulbs are between 2 3/4 and 3 inches in diameter.
Lettuce
Lettuce is the staple salad crop. Home gardeners have an enormous variety to choose from. In Texas the most successful are the leaf and butter head lettuces. The old standby, iceberg, is difficult to grow in warm weather areas. Leaf lettuce comes in different colors and textures. The most common is Black-Seeded Simpson. It has been around for years and matures in about 45 days. No lettuce will grow well in 90 degree heat but it will handle 80 degree days. Upright growing strains like Romaine will do well if planted early. Butter head lettuce like Buttercrunch is a medium green thick leaf lettuce with a buttery texture. It takes 75 days but its delicate flavor and texture are outstanding and the high grocery store price makes it worth a try. Most lettuce when exposed to high temperatures will “bolt” to seed and turn bitter.
Planting is simple. At the top of a row trace a straight line about 1/2 inch deep with a stick or other object and sprinkle in the seed then cover lightly and water gently. As the plants begin to emerge thin carefully to allow growth. Harvest leaves as they become eating size by carefully cutting or pinching them from the plants to allowing more to grow or you can wait until the plant is mature and harvest the entire thing.
Mustard
Mustard seeds are ground and used to make the paste we use on hamburgers and hotdogs. The edible leaves are prepared like spinach and have a tangy distinctive flavor. There are smooth leaf and curly leaf varieties. Curly leaf mustard makes an attractive plant for cool weather though the heavily fringed leaves are difficult to clean.
Planting time and culture are the same as collards. Smooth mustard matures in 45 days though the curly leaf variety takes 50 to 60 days. Mustard and collard seed are often mixed together and sown for an early productive crop.
Okra
Okra is often thought of as indigenous to the Southern United States but it is grown all over the world. Clemson Spineless and Green Velvet are the main varieties and there are new red tinged varieties and hybrids. Okra loves hot weather, as long as water is available it can be grown in the hottest summers. The plants grow up to four feet tall and do not require staking. Make sure you have sufficient space. Insects, like many people are not fond of okra so they are seldom a problem.
Plant seeds about four inches apart after all danger of frost and the soil is warm. Thin plants to stand one to two feet apart. After the true leaves form mulch with Nature’s Creation® Organic Compost with Mycorrhizal Fungi. This keeps the soil rich and maintains steady moisture levels.
Harvest the pods when they reach three to four inches in length. Production can be substantial. Keep to a regular picking schedule to maintain production.
Okra does not require a lot of fertilizer but the plants grow large and can rob the soil of nutrients. Side dress with a mixture of 2/3 Nature’s Creation® Tomato andVegetable Food or Nature’s Creation® Premium Lawn and Garden Fertilizer with Mycorrhizal Fungi and 1/3 Nature’s Creation® Dried Molasses to encourage growth and replenish the soil.
Onions
This article is written for a general audience so are not going to go into all the variables in the onion world. Onions can be a regional vegetable and different varieties are more suitable for one place or another like the famous Vidalia Onions of Georgia or the 10-15 Y Onions of Texas. Some do best with short days others with longer days.
Onions should be planted from sets (bulbs), or plants. In Texas, plants sold in bunches from early January to February are the most popular.
Onions take a long time to mature. Plant as early as possible for your location. Soil should be well prepared and friable enough to allow expansion of the bulbs as they grow. Sandy soil is best. If you have clay soil mix well with Nature’s Creation® Expanded Shale and Nature’s Creation® Lava Sand to allow growth and maintain the constant moisture supply important for sweet onions. A dry then wet cycle can cause onions to be hot and strong tasting. A constant moisture supply encourages them to grow large and maintain sweetness.
Plant close together then use thinnings for green onions. As the bulbs form, carefully run your finger around them to keep the soil pulled away.
When the tops show signs of dying the plants are reaching maturity. After half the tops are withered it is time to harvest. To store, wash the bulbs and allow them to dry naturally with good air circulation.
Insects are normally not a problem with onions.
Snap Peas
Home gardeners rarely grow the traditional English peas that require shelling any more. They have been replaced by the Sugar Snap pea and its kin that have been developed with edible pods. They grow as vines and require staking and a lattice or trellis to climb on. High production and edible pods along with sweet flavor make all the trouble worth it. Newer varieties with bush type habit do not produce as much. Snap peas were developed by crossing the English pea with the Asian snow pea to produce an edible pod that is less fibrous than the English pea and rounded and fuller than the flat snow pea. They can be eaten raw or cooked.
Plant as early as the first of February in the South. In Northern climates they should be planted as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring. Seeds should be placed about two to three inches apart.
Staking can be done in many ways from sticking tree branches into the ground, the most rustic method, to building elaborate tripods. If a fence is available nets can be attached to a fence to accommodate them. Tomato cages work great and can be re-used for years.
Like Cowpeas they are able to take nitrogen from the atmosphere. Treat them with an inoculant to aide the process. One package will normally take care of the gardener’s needs for the early Snap Pea crop as well as the later Cowpeas.
As an early crop peas are a target for early spring insect pests especially aphids. For chewing insects and aphids keep the plants dusted with Nature’s Creation® Diatomaceous Earth Crawling Insect Control.
Nature’s Creation® Tomato andVegetable Food or Nature’s Creation® Premium Lawn and Garden Fertilizer with Mycorrhizal Fungi mixed well into the top three or four inches of soil a week or two before planting will provide extra nutrition for pea production.
Pods can be tough if allowed to grow too large. Pick before they are longer than four inches and pick often to encourage more production. Shred or chop the old vines and add to the compost pile.
Peppers
Peppers have a cult like following with numerous varieties in different sizes, shapes, and colors and various degrees of “heat”. Peppers are often grouped with tomatoes because the plants are commonly available in the spring, but they are different in habit. Peppers appreciate much cooler weather as they mature than tomatoes and take up less space.
Your local nursery or garden center they will have plants of the best varieties for your area. Purchase and plant them as soon as they become available in the spring and cover with cut down milk bottles as described for eggplant. Early planting gives you a head start that can extend the growing season by up to a month. The plants should be set about a food apart. Only the largest varieties, like bell peppers will require staking or support to them bear the weight of the fruit.
Prepare the soil well and set the plants about eight to twelve inches apart. A mixture of Nature’s Guide Lava Sand and Nature’s Creation® Tejas GreenSand incorporated into the soil seems to make a great difference in the size and rich green color of the plants. To encourage fruiting apply 5 lbs of Nature’s Creation® Tomato andVegetable Food or Nature’s Creation® Premium Lawn and Garden Fertilizer with Mycorrhizal Fungi per 100 square feet. Soak the plants and root system with 2 oz of Nature’s Creation® Root Stimulator mixed with one gallon of water when you transplant. Mulch each plant with at least an inch of one of Nature’s Creation® Organic Compost with Mycorrhizal Fungi and water the plants as needed.
In warm weather, Red Spider mites are one of the few insect pests to afflict pepper plants. Controlled them with a careful dusting of Nature’s Creation® Diatomaceous Earth Crawling Insect Contro that reaches up under the leaves where they hide or spray with Nature’s Creation® GarlicCide. Making sure that applications of these products reach the underside of the leaves is more important than the quantity applied.
Potatoes
Potatoes are best grown in a larger garden. They are one of the least expensive varieties of produce but they are fun to grow. We can not prove it but home grown potatoes seem to taste better than store bought. There are almost as many growing techniques for potatoes as there are gardeners.We put forth two different methods used with great success by a couple of gardeners we know.
The traditional way is to till the soil to a depth of at least twelve inches. Loosen clay soil and make as friable as possible with Nature’s Creation® Expanded Shale. In sandy soil add plenty of compost. Nature’s Creation® Organic Compost with Mycorrhizal Fungi and Nature’s Creation® Lava Sand improve moisture holding and add nutrients.
Buy only certified seed potatoes. We prefer the whole potatoes. The “potato seed” are sold in packages have been treated with chemical fungicides to keep them from rotting. Certified seed potatoes are been selected for growing and not treated with an anti-sprouting solution like commercial potatoes.
Cut each potato into four pieces. You can cut them up more, but make sure each piece has several “eyes” from which the new plants will sprout. Allow the cut surfaces to dry for 24 hours to prevent rotting. Natural starches in the potato will dry to form a “scab” that will protect the tender inside.
Nestle the cut pieces in the top inch of soil about six to eight inches apart with rows about three feet apart on centers. Rake on inward on both sides to cover the seed with an additional two inches of soil to form a raised row with trenches in between.
As the plants grow, fill the trenches with compost and water between the rows. The soil will wick up the moisture. The compost in between the rows will hold moisture and release it to the soil and keep the soil in the rows from compacting making it easy for potatoes to form.
As weather warms, dust with Nature’s Creation® Diatomaceous Earth Crawling Insect Control. It is effective in controlling the Colorado Potato Beetle. These voracious little beetles can devastate a stand of potato plants practically over night. Nature’s Creation® Diatomaceous Earth Crawling Insect Control works by destroying the waxy coating of the beetle’s shell and is more effective than most toxic insecticides.
Eighty to ninety days after planting ( Valentine’s Day, February 14, is the normal planting time in most of Texas), dig up one of the plants and see how the potatoes have developed. If you are planting red potatoes for new potatoes test them at about sixty-five days. When the size is to your liking finish the harvest. Dig carefully, it is frustrating to ruin a beautiful potato with the spading fork! Store harvested potatoes in a cool dry place.
One very grower swears by his method. His soil is well prepared with plenty of Nature’s Creation® Organic Compost with Mycorrhizal Fungi mixed in with the tiller. He makes rows seven to eight inches deep. The seed are placed about six to eight inches apart and covered with three inches of soil. After watering or a heavy rain he covers any exposed potatoes with fresh soil. When the plants reach a height of eight inches he covers up to the first branches with Nature’s Creation® Organic Compost with Mycorrhizal Fungi. He follows this procedure as the plants continue to grow until they reach soil level. He swears that the addition of Nature’s Creation® Organic Compost with Mycorrhizal Fungi has eliminated insect pests especially Colorado Potato Beetles. The compost keeps the soil loose and making harvesting less strenuous.
Another grower makes rows about three inches deep and plants the seed potatoes four to six inches apart. As the plants grow he applies salt marsh hay or a substitute around the base of the plants. He uses Nature’s Creation® Diatomaceous Earth Crawling Insect Control to control Colorado Potato Beetles and aphids. He claims the potatoes grow on the surface under the hay. To harvest he rakes the hay away and simply picks the potatoes off the ground. Residual hay is removed and added to the compost.
Radishes
In the U.S. and Europe radishes are prized for their spicy flavor. They are eaten raw and the leaves are edible as well. Radishes are related to turnips and mustard. Numerous varieties and colors are available including red, red over white, and the stalwart white icicle. They mature in as little as 25 to 30 days. Successive plantings are necessary to keep a fresh supply. Radishes like cool weather, begin planting about thirty days before the last frost date in your area.
Growing takes little space. Plant thickly in short rows and thin to two or three inches apart. The seeds are large and easy to plant. Make a shallow trench one inch deep and sprinkle in the seed. Well prepared loose soil will yield better crops. Radishes have few insect pests and a dusting of Nature’s Creation® Diatomaceous Earth Crawling Insect Control is sufficient. Because they mature quite rapidly, check them after twenty days and harvest as they mature. Do not let them get too larger or flavor and texture will suffer.
Rutabaga
Rutabagas are related to turnips but take longer to mature. In the South they are grown as a fall crop and stand all but the coldest weather. In northern climates plant 30 days before the last frost date. The flesh of the rutabaga is fine grained and sweeter than turnips. It turns bright orange when cooked. They have become popular cut up and fried like potatoes and provide more nutrition and less carbs.
Plant in well prepared soil in rows. Space and thin as you would mustard or turnips. They grow best in cool weather and need plenty of water to form the bulbs. Soil can become just as dry in cool weather as in hot weather. Insects are usually not much of a problem in cool weather and the occasional dusting with Nature’s Creation® Diatomaceous Earth Crawling Insect Control will keep pests in check.
Harvest the bulbs when they reach three to three and a half inches in diameter.
Shallots
The flavor of shallots is between onions and garlic. They are a staple in many European dishes and easy to grow. Plant from commercially available “sets” or bulbs which multiply and not seeds. Follow the same planting and harvesting instructions as garlic.
Squash
There are two categories of squash; winter squash and summer squash. Summer squash likes hot weather, matures rapidly, and does not store well. The compact plants produce an abundance of fruit. Winter squash is so named, not because it grows in the winter, but because it has a thick skin or shell and stores better. The plants are quite large and vine like their close relative the gourd. The fruit takes longer to mature than summer squash. We treat the two separately.
Plant summer squash after all danger of frost is past. Nurseries sell squash plants but the seed do just as well. There is no significant advantage in harvest time. They are available in different sizes and shapes from bright yellow crookneck and straight neck varieties to flat white “Patty Pan” with its distinctive scalloped edge.
Plant summer squash in “hills”. Mound up the soil to a gradual height of about ten to twelve inches above the surface with a diameter of at least three feet and a flat top. Plant three or four seeds in the top of each hill one inch deep and water thoroughly. Most varieties mature in about forty-five to fifty-five days.
Thin to one or two plants per hill. Mulch the plants with two inches of Nature’s Creation® Organic Compost with Mycorrhizal Fungi to hold in moisture, keep weed growth to a minimum and keep the forming fruit off the soil. Control insect with Nature’s Creation® Diatomaceous Earth Crawling Insect Control.
Swiss Chard
Swiss Chard or Chard is another leafy, healthy vegetable that has not achieved great popularity in the United States. It is full of antioxidants and vitamins and can be eaten raw in salads though it has a slightly bitter taste. Leaves and stems can be cooked until tender like spinach. Cooking reduces bitterness giving it a mild agreeable flavor. close relative of beets and the seeds of chard are indistinguishable from of beets. Some varieties have colorful red stems though they are said not to be as flavorful as the older green strains.
Chard is a cool weather crop. Plant about a month before the last frost date. It can withstand cool weather like beets but rapidly goes to seed when it gets too warm. Soak the seeds before planting and follow the basic instructions for the care of beets.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes are the most popular home grown vegetable and among the most temperamental. Ask 100 people the best way to grow tomatoes and the best varieties and you may get 100 different answers. In Texas too much early hot weather can be a problem. In northern areas cool nights can keep fruit from setting. Too much water may cause larger varieties to split. We are not going to presume to make you an expert in the space we have here and limit our remarks to fundamentals useful in all parts of the country.
Start with loose and well drained soil prepared to a depth of at least 8 to 12 inches. A mixture of Nature’s Creation® Expanded Shale, Natures Creation® TeJas Green Sand, and Natures Creation® Lava Sand improve nearly any type of soil and allow water penetration and growth.
Your local nursery is the place to select your plants. They have the varieties they know are best for your climate. Pick strong plants and remove any blooms that are be present. Blooming before the root have developed can divert the plants growing energy and cause a shorter harvest.
At planting, remove the bottom leaf stems and plant so the first branches are only about an inch or so off the ground. Roots will grow out of the main stem and produce a stronger more extensive root system.
Soak the plants with a solution of 2 oz. Nature’s Creation® Root Stimulator per gallon of warm water.
Plant earlier than the final frost date if you have resources to cover the plants and protect them from frost like the milk bottles described for eggplant. This gives you a head start in hot climates.
Dust regularly with Nature’s Creation® Diatomaceous Earth Crawling Insect Control. Apply it around the base of each plant after soaking with Nature’s Creation® Root Stimulator. This prevents cut worms that can devastate a stand of plants in a single evening and red spider mites that arrive with the summer heat.
Keep moisture constant and surround the base of each plant with an inch of Nature’s Creation® Organic Compost with Mycorrhizal Fungi. Some growers hold that allowing the plants to get dry enough to begin wilting will make them hardier.
Side dress each plant with 1/2 cup of Nature’s Creation® Tomato andVegetable Food or Nature’s Creation® Premium Lawn and Garden Fertilizer with Mycorrhizal Fungi when they start blooming.
Set tomato cages in place while the plants are still small. Once they get large it is hard to place cages without damaging the plants.
If you smoke or chew tobacco wash your hands thoroughly with a germicidal soap before working with them. Tobacco Mosaic, a disease common to tobacco that infect Tomatoes.
Turnips
If, unlike this author, you can develop a taste for turnips and turnip greens you will never starve. Turnips are productive and easy to grow. My dislike of turnips comes from my grandmother’s stew which was very good until I had my mouth set for the potato I skewered only to find out I had snagged a turnip. Eat the bulbs boiled or mashed. The tops make flavorful greens. In Texas they can be grown in all but the hottest part of the summer and make a great winter cover crop for the garden that will produce all winter.
Zucchini
We have given zucchini its own section because in the stores it is generally separate from the other summer squash. It has the similar bush-type habit of regular summer squash.
Planting instructions and care, including preventing squash bugs, are identical tosummer squash.
Warning- with plenty of sun, warmth and water zucchini fruit can grow several inches practically overnight and get so large as to render it inedible.